Sunday, August 24, 2025

Bellevue to La Gruvaz via Col de Tricot and Plateau de Truc

 This is the kind of fun end-to-end hike that, when leaving from St Gervais, requires no car. You start at Bellevue, where you get using the cog train, and end up 15 miles away at the La Gruvaz village, where you get on the St Gervais shuttle.

The total distance is a little under 15 miles, and the net elevation gain is approximately 3,500 ft. I got on the Tramway du Mt Blanc (TMB), which is the ski train that in winter gets you to the top of Les Houches, one of the Chamonix Valley resorts. It's France's highest cog train and also serves as the approach for any mountaineers wanting to use the "Royal trail" to the summit of Mt Blanc, 4,807 m (15,770 feet). I only needed it to the Bellevue stop, one of the Les Houches ski lift top stations.

From Bellevue, 1,796 m ( 5,900 feet), you hike down to the "Passerelle des Glaciers," 1,700 m (5,500 feet), which is a hanging bridge crossing some thundering whitewater. That is deeply disturbing to Loki, my Australian Kelpie. He will only cross it if I belay him... From there, you hike up to the Col de Tricot, 2,120 m (7,000 feet), down to Chalets de Miage (a cluster of mountain huts), 1,720 m (5,650 feet), then up to Plateau de Truc, 1,800 m (5,900 feet), and then all the way down to La Gruvaz, 1150 m (3,800 feet).

This is the Tramway du Mt Blanc after dropping us off at
Bellevue above Les Houches, Chamonix,


Sunrise over the Aiguille de Bionnassay.

Arriving at Col de Tricot looking towards the
Arrette de Tricot, the trail going up the ridge
or towards Plan de Glacier, the lower trail
to the right, Chemin des Contrebandiers.


Still at Col de Tricot, looking down the trail and 
the Chalets de Miage.

Loki inspecting a container dropped by
chopper in support of the UTMB.

This picture was taken during a hike to the Refuge de Plan
Glacier. In the center, you see the Miage hut cluster, and
above them to the left, Plateau de Truc, that's our next stop.

First light on Dome de Miage as seen walking down 
from Col de Tricot.



Col de Tricot and Chalets de Miage as seen while 
hiking up to Plateau de Truc.

Arriving on Plateau de Truc.

The Auberge de Truc is a restaurant on the plateau.


Tuesday, August 19, 2025

Pointe d'Orny

 Yesterday, I indulged in a reconnaissance tour of what I am told is an exceptional backcountry ski area around the Trient hut and Pointe d'Orny, at 10,732 feet (3272 m), the culminating point around the hut. I figured I'd go and see for myself and get some exercise while at it. This is in the Valais canton of the Swiss Alps. The views of the Mt Blanc massif are exceptional, and you get to two of the most famous mountain huts in Switzerland. The mountain huts of Orny, 9,288 feet (2831m), and Trient, 10,406 feet (3170m), are accessed a bit more easily thanks to the La Breya chairlift that starts at the Champex ski mountain, a tiny (with only four lifts) but very charming resort. Although tiny in quantity of lifts, the Breya old school double chair gains a bit over 2,200 feet of very steep terrain in about 10 minutes, so not by any means hapless...

Regarding the ski lines, they start from Pointe d'Orny or its ridge and drop down into the Val d'Arpette. The lines look sweet, and here is an example of that.

After about an hour's walk, you get a first glimpse of 
the snow and the high Alpine terrain.

After another hour, the Cabane d'Orny is in sight as well as
the first glacier.

Looks like Loki beat me to the hut.

Leaving the Orny hut and its lake behind.

The more dramatic features prompt climbers in the Alps to
talk a bout a mineral or a vertical world. This picture
demonstrates how both can apply at the same time. 

Full glacier environment...

...and arrival to the very beautiful and recently (2023)
renovated Cabane de Trient that sits over the glaciers.

This picture was taken while on the way to Pointe d'Orny...

...and this one on the way back down. After this, there was 
a three hour walk back to the ski lift.


Wednesday, August 13, 2025

Animals of the Mountains

 This is a recap of a bunch of lucky shots over the years while loitering about the mountains. Given the environment and its fauna, it's no surprise that about half of these are just different mountain goats. 

I have seen many more animals than this, but to get a proper shot, you have to retrieve the camera, which for me involves an unzipping noise, powering on the camera, aiming it, and shooting without scaring the animal away. That's why I consider a lot of the pictures below lucky shots, even though they are far from displaying any photographic sophistication.

Most of these were taken during fall hikes or mountain climbs. The winter pictures were taken while on backcountry ski tours.

On Mount Timpanogos (aka Timp) in late September
of 2006 I got the privilege to meet this Rocky Mountain goat  

This bighorn I met in mid-October 2012
in the Bornes Massif, French Alps.

This "bouquetin" I met recently (Aug. 2025) near the Miage
glacier in the Mt Blanc massif.

This one too is a new acquaintance. I met him near the 
Tre La Tete hut (refuge) in June 2025.

I piqued these two ibex's curiosity while approaching
La Crête des Grands, Chamonix, in Oct. 2011.

Another Rocky Mountain goat. This one encountered in the 
Coalpit drainage (Wasatach range) October, 2008.


This bird is called a Choucas in the French Alps. They say 
that each of them hosts the soul of a dead skier. This guy
I encountered on a lunch brake by La Crête des Grands,
Chamonix, in Oct. 2011 (same day as the two ibexes above).

A beloved presence in both the Alps and the Rockies. This
one seen below the Tre La Tete glacier in late July 2025.

This soulful moose was my neighbor when I
lived on top of Summit Park in Park City, UT.
The picture was taken from my porch in Oct. 2018.

This little guy froze when he heard me and my dog approaching,
hoping to avoid discovery. It failed on me, but worked on
my dog. The picture was taken in early March 2019.

White reindeer photographed in late September 2019.
Lapland (Arctic Sweden) near the town of Jokkmokk.


Wednesday, August 6, 2025

Plan de Glacier at glacier of Miage

 Yesterday I hiked from the trailhead of the village of Champel in the Val Montjoie (the Montjoie valley that goes from St Gervais Mont Blanc to Notre Dame de la Gorge). It starts at 1200 m (3,900 feet), passes the Chalets de Miage at 1560 m (5,100 feet), and ends at the Refuge (hut) de Plan Glacier at 2700 m (8,900 feet). It's an exceptionally rewarding outing. The Miage mountain (summer) pasture offers a very idyllic alpine countryside scenery. About an hour past Miage, you will experience a very rugged and wild tundra-like beauty with a Lapland feel to it, and end your hike in the high alpine esthetics. On top of it all, you will get a decent fitness boost powered by the 15-mile distance and 5,000+ feet elevation gain.

The refuge de Plan de Glacier offers close access to Refuge Durier at 3358 m (11,000 feet) and from there on to either Dome de Miage at 3670 m (12,000 feet) or Aiguille de Bionnassay at 4052 m (13,300 feet).


One of several waterfalls after you pass the 
Chalets de Miage.


Where the two rivers meet are the Chalets de Miage. To their
left is the Plateau de Truc.


In the middle of this picture is a hanging bridge you cross 
before the steepest and longest push to the refuge de
Plan Glacier.


My first sight of a lonesome young mountain goat...


...he was unafraid enough to let me and my dog get 
close enough for this shot.


First sight of the refuge de Plan Glacier with 
Aiguille de Tricot towering over it. Enlarge
to see the hut in the middle of the shot.


A closer look here.

Loki the Magnificent resting on the deck.




Yours truly and Loki.




Friday, July 11, 2025

Summer skiing at Tignes

 Tignes is a remarkable ski destination in many ways (for the lowdown on Tignes, click here). Still, to my mind, its most significant attribute is that it enables skiers to break up the interminable timespan between ski seasons. Spending the summer in Saint Gervais - Mont Blanc, I am no more than two hours away from Tignes. So yesterday I skied the Grande Motte glacier. In the early morning, the slopes felt like no more than near-vertical ice rinks, but after a couple of hours in the sun, something approaching a corn cycle took form, and the skiing became really exciting and fun. This day on the glacier also allowed me to dial in my new skiing equipment that I just bought for the upcoming 2025/2026 season in St Gervais. It feels like the height of privilege to be able to enjoy skiing in mid-summer. I'm not sure what could possibly beat that!

The infrastructure put in place to make all this possible is pretty impressive. First is the funicular train. This is a cog train that speeds through the mountain from Val Claret at 2100 m (6,890 feet) elevation and races the two miles plus to the base of the Grand Motte glacier at 3302 m (11,337 feet) or an elevation gain of 932 m (3056 feet). This is done in seven minutes! From there, you can either ski down to the Vanoise quadruple chair and take that back up or, better yet, get directly on the tram. That tram takes you from the Grand Motte glacier at 3302 m to its top station at 3456 m (12,000 feet). That is an aerial tramway, the only one with an observation deck on top accessible via a spiral staircase in the tram. In all there are five operating lifts in the summer. It's close to 100 in winter for the "Espace Killy", which pools the Tignes and Val d 'Isere lift systems.

Here are some pictures to get you an overview of what summer skiing at Tignes can look like:

La Grande Motte at 3,656m or 12,000 feet, as taken from my hotel room
some 5,000 feet lower using zoom
.

La Grande Motte taken from the tram base station at about 11.000 feet elevation.

 
The funicular train that speeds through the mountain
from Val Claret 6,890 feet and races the two miles plus
and an elevation gain of 3056 feet.
 

The cable car with the "flight" deck on top. For better
pictures of that deck, click here.

This picture shows that it's not all hardship in the sub-zero
temperatures, even on the glacier. This picture is taken closer
to noon when the sun dominates the experience.

...on the subject of of easier enjoyment, here is Tignes Lac
at about 2100 m or 7,000 feet where my hotel was. In the
distance you can see, on the horizon,
the Grande Motte glacier.



Friday, June 13, 2025

Notre Dame de la Gorge - Aiguille Croche

ANGLAIS:  Yesterday was a biggish day with a hike from the trailhead parking closest to Notre Dame de la Gorge (1200 m - 3,900 feet) to Aiguille Croche (2,487 m - 8,260 feet). The round-trip is approximately 22 km (14 miles) with a net elevation gain of 1,350 m (ca. 4,500 feet). This is not a technically challenging route. Essentially, it's just a rather long and strenuous walk. Here are some pictures (click to enlarge):

FRENCH: Hier était une journée un peu chargée avec une randonnée depuis le parking de Notre-Dame de la Gorge (1 200 m) jusqu'à l'Aiguille Croche (2 487 m). L'aller-retour fait environ 22 km (14 miles) avec un dénivelé positif net de 1 350 m (environ 4 500 pieds). Ce n'est pas un itinéraire techniquement difficile. Il s'agit simplement d'une marche plutôt longue et un peu ardue. Voici quelques photos (cliquez pour agrandir) :

Aiguille Croche from/du Signal.

Aig. Croche & avalanche mitigation.

Vue of/de Hauteluce & Val Joly from/depuis Col Joly.

From left to right: Dome and Hut of the Gouter to Mt Blanc.
De gauche a droite : Dome et refuge du Gouter au Mt Blanc.


Sunday, June 8, 2025

Animals around the Tré-la-Tête glacier - Animaux de Tré-la-Tête





Here are a couple of pictures of animals I saw today between the Tré-la-Tête hut and the hut of the Conscrits. 

Voici deux photos d’animaux prises aujourd’hui entre les refuges de Tré-la-Tête et des Conscrits.